Blog

Some figures

5 Rest days: 1 at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port 1 at Pamplona 1 at Logroño 2 at Burgos 35 days of walking, of which were consecutive days: 3 Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Pamplona. 4 Pamplona to Logroño. 6 Logroño to Burgos. 22 Burgos to Santiago...
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Taking Stock

Lost: One pair of Google Pixel earbuds and one water tight bag. Damaged: The valve to my water bladder system that had it leaking on me often. Worn: My dust covered and beaten shoes that had previously only seen a...
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Certificates & Stamps

The Compostela and the Certificate of distance + the stamps collected (I removed my full name and personal details from the pictures).
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Early to Santiago de Compostela

Today was an early start at 6.15am to avoid a long wait at the pilgrim’s office. A mist crept through the fields and valleys for the duration. The route made it’s way around the northern end of the Santiago airport...
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O Pedrouzo (O Pino), the Penultimate Day

Today was a 20km walk to O Pedrouzo (O Pino), the penultimate day of walking. Not as demanding as yesterday’s 29km, the path lead through many wooded areas with glimpses of far hills and fields. Tomorrow will be the last...
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To Arzúa, the End Draws Near

Today, feet that are now tired have traveled over 29km to Arzúa. All that remains is two more days of walking to Santiago. Fortunately both days will be just under 20km each. The feel has changed for sure. There are...
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Leaving Portomarin & on to Palas de Rei

Yesterday, after Portomarín, it was a 26km hike to Palas de Rei. The landscape has been a mixture of trees, minor hills and green fields. It feels like anywhere in north-western Europe. The distance to Santiago de Compostela is now...
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Leaving Sarria

Sarria was good to see again. I was there for a Galicien road trip two years ago. This time got to stay in a guesthouse in the old town on the Camiño trail. Yesterday was the walk from Sarria to...
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Which Way to Sarria

There are two main Camiño paths from Triacastela to Sarria. The first is a 24km stretch that takes you past a monestery, and the second is 17km. I went for the shorter option, although it did have a lot of...
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From Laguna, up & over into Galicia

From Laguna there was still another 175 metres to climb, over the border into Galicia and up passed O Cebreiro. There are some pretty amazing views up there. Especially looking into Galicia with mist filled valleys of the rolling hills....
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Arriving at Villafranca del Bierzo

Yesterday’s walk to Villafranca del Bierzo was a 24km hike. This walk didn’t have any large elevation changes. The area of Ponferrada and Villafranca del Bierzo occupy a basin of a valley surrounded by mountains in all sides. The valley...
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Recap; Ponferrada & Villafranca del Bierzo

Catch up time. I didn’t post yesterday. So at Ponferrada, 2 days ago, I stayed in a dorm room at a hotel hostel. I’m not sure if I mentioned Roberto. He is a Roman Italian man who previously pointed out...
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Onwards to Ponferrada

I then continued on another 8km to town of Ponferrada where I am staying for today. The whole place is in its own valley between all of the surrounding mountains. The views today have been great. Definitely hard work but...
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Arriving at Foncebadon

Today was all up hill, climbing 615 metres over 25km. I still managed to keep a good pace of 5.3kph, completing the distance in under 5 hours. I am now in the village of Foncebadon, on top of the mountain...
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Staying at Astorga in a Brazilian Albergue

The stay at Astorga was with a Brazilian host. It was a well maintained loft dorm room with single beds, proper sheets and a blanket. It was a comfortable bed. At cheaper dorms you get a disposal sheet and pillow...
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León & Uji’s Hospitality

So now I have reached León in just under 17km. At the hostel, there is a funny 71 year old Japanese man called Uji who has been encouraging me to drink beer with him. He gave me chopsticks to eat...
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Staying at Bercianos del Real Camino

Not much to report for my stay in Bercianos del Real Camino the day before yesterday. I had lunch at another albergue and paella for dinner at mine. Had conservations with a Spanish guy called Herman from Barcelona and an...
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Romans!

Today I didn’t get up until 6.30am. A lie in! I walked 26km today to get to Terradillos de los Templarios, a place with a history associated with the Knights Templar. I got to walk along an ancient super highway,...
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Nuns!

The albergue yesterday at Carrión de los Condes was run be nuns. Sisters of Charity of Saint Vincent de Paul to be exact. They were very friendly, but spoke no English. I had to turn to a new Slovenian acquaintance...
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The Earliest of Departures

I couldn’t find a place to reserve at Carrión de los Condes, 25km away, so I decided to set off super early to make sure I could get a place at one of the municipal albergues that don’t take reservations....
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Dinner with Koreans

Last night’s dinner was at the hotel. There were several long tables. Not long after I sat down, around something like 16 Koreans sat around me. I was the odd one out. I was able to say small things in...
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Cuckoos Revisited

I think now I understand what it means to go cuckoo. I hear these birds so much, that you could see youself going cuckoo 🙂
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Journeying on from Castrojeriz

Today’s journey was just over the 20 km mark. I got up early for a change at 6am. I think I was going a bit too fast for my own good to start with, it was not so comfortable, but...
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Another Starter Reunion in Castrojeriz

Things easily become a blur. Last night I ate at the albergue. I had caught up with yet another person I fed all those days ago back at Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, Carla, another American woman. So far that makes four of the...
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To Castrojeriz but still Pained

Today I did another 13 km short walk from Arroyo de San Bol to the beginning of Castrojeriz. On the way I stopped at Hontanas for breakfast Tortilla and coffee. Later I passed the ruins of a convent; Ruinas del...
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Leaving Arroyo de San Bol

Last night we had a communal dinner made by the host. It was an excellent chicken paella with salad. We sat at a round table with a domed roof. The group of Italians certainly enjoying themselves. I just realised I...
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Arroyo de San Bol, an Albergue Alone

Today I walked 13.5km from Rabé de las Calzadas to Arroyo de San Bol. I arrived there just after 11 am. The place didn’t open until 2pm. The albergue is basically one building in a valley by itself in the...
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At Rabé de las Calzadas

Yesterday at Rabé de las Calzadas I kept it simple. I had lunch outside at a village restaurant bar. It felt a bit strange perhaps because it was a Sunday, but half the village were sat at the other tables...
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El Cid & to Rabé de las Calzadas

Which brings me to today. I had a good night sleep at the pension. I set off for a 14km journey to Rabé de las Calzadas. I think I was doing some recovery in Burgos but this walk was not...
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A Pharmacy & a Coronation

So yesterday morning I got up slowly and packed. Previously I had decided to make it three nights in Burgos, but I didn’t want to keep paying for a hotel. I booked my third night in a cheaper pension that...
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Burgos Rest & Recovery Plan

So now I am happily relaxing in my hotel room, where I will be for two nights. I booked a slightly cheaper pension nearby for the 3rd night. I have also reserved a bed in an albergue for Sunday. This...
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The Dead Wasp Surprise

So after 22km of limping with my poles, I checked in using an automatic check-in machine that gives you a key card. I got up to the room and there were over 100 dead wasps in there! I messaged them...
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Onwards to Burgos

With my hotel check in being 3pm, I set off a bit later and made my way slowly to Burgos. I stopped on my way for lunch and made a point of taking my time. There was some pretty landscape...
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The Stay at Agés

Not too much remarkable about yesterday. I was mostly resting up at my albergue. I had a few conversations with other pilgrims. Some are faces I have seen a few times. I had some wines here (picture below) and ate...
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The Way to Agés

Today was an epic walk of about 28km from Belorado to Agés. It was a struggle with my shin / ankle issue but I’m glad it leaves me only 22km to Burgos and my 3 days of rest. Had a...
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Eating at Belorado & Sleeping Through Snorers

The pool yesterday was definitely welcome. I at at the albergue which doubled up as a restaurant. Got some fancy calamari followed by a kilo of iberian bbq ribs and fries. Impressive quality. In the night the woman in the...
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Cuckoos

I’ve heard so many in the morning, walking the trails. On the road so far into my journey I’ve noticed an abundance of red poppies, rape flower fields, wheatfields and wineyards. I’m out of the Rioja region and now into...
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Slow Walk to Belorado and a Swim

Today was just under 16km. Grañón to Belorado. I kept a slow pace and was happy the time passed quick. I am relaxed and happy despite my discomfort. In Belorado I grabbed a small beer and a tortilla and a...
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D.I.Y. Repairs

I have started using the sports tape I have packed. My ankle and shin are still causing issues. I had to shave the top of my right foot and half my shin before putting the tape on.
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Bed With No Dinner

Later yesterday it became apparent that the only two restaurants in Grañón were closed and the only store was closed too. Last night’s dinner was bar snacks, crisps, nuts and ice-cream. It wasn’t ideal but I wasn’t that hungry. May...
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Shin Splinted Walk to Grañón

Today, I travelled 22km from Azofra to Grañón. It was tough. My shin / ankle is still troubling me. Perhaps I sped up a bit much too soon. Today I have a room in a pension to myself. It just...
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Cooling Legs as Azofra

At Azofra, I stayed at a large albergue that had rooms with two beds. I shared with a Spanish man who didn’t speak much English, matching my Spanish level. There was a fountain pool, perfect for dangling your legs in!...
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Getting to Azofra via Nájera

Today I’ve done just over 22km to get from Naverrete to Azofra. I was able to walk a bit quicker up from yesterday’s 4kph to 4.5kph. I have some discomfort, but not as bad as before. I’ve been keeping my...
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Staying at Naverrete

Naverrete yesterday was fine. At my Albergue I had a room shared with a German History and English teacher called Florian from Bonn. Had a mixed salad for lunch with a couple of red wines. Later I met up with...
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News of Janet

In Logroño, I bumped into Jonathan (Tuscan, Arizona) that I fed back in Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port. He said that he heard Janet, the older American woman I also fed back then, and was concerned about, was up all night up on the...
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Storm Free

Oh yes, that promised storm never broke. Just some clouds and a bit of wind. Temperature is down to 21c from yesterday’s 28c.
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A Slower Trek to Navarrete

So thankfully, today was just a 12km stretch from Logroño to Navarrete as mentioned. I still have my shin problem on my right leg. I’ve been taking ibuprofen to reduce inflammation and fortunately I have my compression tights that I...
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Amazing Food & Atmosphere of Logroño

Last night I caught up with Damien and Rod at 8pm to go for pinchos. Logroño is the main wine trading town of the Rioja region, it’s pretty impossible to get a bad glass of wine, and last night was...
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Resting in Logroño, Injuries Make Themselves Known

Day off in Logroño Last night I had dinner with Bill from Atlanta, Markus from Germany and Vincenzina from Italy. All three definitely representative of their nationalies (the better aspects of). Had an anchovy and pepper starter that was great....
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Planning Rest at Logroño

Tomorrow’s plan is to have two nights stay at the town of Logroño. A day off from walking is due again. My knees will appreciate the rest. I have made an informal WhatsApp group with Damien and Rod. We will...
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